India

Introduction: eventually settle into India, still have a limit, how much I may tolerate in a given day, but perhaps, it overwhelms me, less and less. I am not an expert on India, I barely know the difference among dosa, idli and vada, but, I am able to exist in India with less trauma, less drama, and less duplicity.

People often comment that my travel experience does not sound fun. I am not retired, I do not need a vacation. I do not need a break from life, rather, I need an experience that will break my life. My intention is to experience the world independently.

It is too easy to go through life on autopilot, to pick and choose experiences that reinforce my false beliefs. It is much more difficult to go through the world, and discover experiences that may shatter that which is sacred. If anything, I should be criticized for being a coward, for traveling too safely, for not taking greater risk.

I may live a disciplined and organized life in the United States, but world travel shatters any illusion (delusion) of certainty, because, there is no certainty. I wish for world travel to bruise me, scar me, and scare me. If I was a modern day Thoreau: “I traveled the world, to see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.”

I enlisted in the Marine Corps before I informed family and friends. I needed the experience to change my life. I want the travel experience to change me, I need the experience to change me. It is a tragic, and wasted opportunity, if I return to the United States, the same person. People only grow and change when forced to push through their zone of discomfort. Poison or cure, but the size of the dose.

Travel is not always pretty. It is not always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. That is okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.
Anthony Bourdain

FRI 01 MAY: thunderstorm last night, leaves the morning air cool and comfortable. Walk to Mysore bus station, there are no tourists, and I become the object of intense stares.

Travel days often feel like they are on the knife edge of disaster, and today is no different. Bus station, with countless rush hour buses to Bangalore, appears chaotic to me, but maybe, this is just another day at the bus station. I might call it chaos, but maybe, I do not know chaos. I know what the word chaos means, but maybe, I do not really understand the meaning of the word.

Onward bus to Ooty pulls into the station; crush of people push their way on-board, as if it is a bad game of musical chairs. Un-ticketed passengers try to “scam” seats, but will need to stand for the duration of the journey. Ticketed passengers, like me, have to crawl over the un-ticketed passengers to our assigned seats.

Bus drives through hill country, passed through Bandipur National Tiger Reserve, and gained 7,000-feet in elevation. Did not see tigers, but saw elephants, peacocks, spotted deer (chital), and the distinct smell of the eucalyptus tree.

One-hundred twenty mile journey takes six hours, what did I expect for $2 USD bus fare. To combine limited education with limited economic (financial) resources, often yields crass, crude, and uncivil behavior. It also gives rise to corruption, which corrodes everything with which it comes in to contact. India does not hold a monopoly, but with 1.5-billion people, it is impossible to ignore, and it becomes tedious and tiring. To extend kindness to others, is to extend kindness to ourself.

SAT 02 MAY: I should know myself well-enough by now, to recognize that almost every out station is a mistake (Sapa Vietnam, Cat Ba Vietnam, Hampi India, Ooty India). There is no departure board at the bus station, announcements are in Tamil. Wait in the parking lot, sunburned, to watch for bus (#4) to Coimbatore. Fifty-mile journey takes three hours; find local bus to airport hotel.

India has regional language differences: Hindi spoken in the north (ie. Delhi), Tamil spoken in the south (Coimbatore, Chennai), Bengali spoken in the east (Kolkata, Darjeeling), Punjabi spoken in the west (Amritsar); all available in Google translate.

SUN 03 MAY: nine-hour train downgraded from Chair Class (CC) to Second Sitting (2S), no thank you. Purchase plane ticket to Chennai. 8am flight cancelled, moved to 11am flight (#2), subsequently delayed. Long-term travel, not fatal, death by paper cut.

Struggle to discover anything nice about Chennai. Struggle to get past the stench. Is this how I connect the dots. Is this what it means to travel the other half of the world, the other 100 countries, the countries that exist on the left side of the bell curve.

Walk past Chennai slums, and wonder, if there is an all-powerful god, than why is there so much suffering. Astrophysicist, Neil deGrasse Tyson suggests that, perhaps there is no all-powerful god. Perhaps there is a god, but it is not all-powerful. Perhaps there is a god but it is not benevolent. Thoughts and prayers.

TUE 05 MAY: metro to airport, check-in counter did not give me a hard time about Bangladesh visa-on-arrival. Had to show return flight, and received boarding pass (#3). I had travel rules queued-up in email, just in case. Better than denied boarding.

Brief detour to Dhaka (alt. Dacca) Bangladesh. First stop is visa-on-arrival desk. Despite previous reports, credit card accepted without argument ($51 USD). Had to share lodging and return flight reservation details before stamped into the country.

Exit the airport, and find local bus stop. Gentleman guides me to the correct bus, south towards Banani. Discomfort and uncertainty punctuated by ephemeral and fleeting moments of kindness. Google suggests that bus fare is $0.25 USD. Conductor tells me fare is $2 USD. Ask gentleman next to me, and pay $0.25 USD. Another day, and the never-ending, low-grade friction of world travel.

Find double-edged razor blade at the barber shop (cannot fly with razor blades). Barber does not want to be paid, another fleeting moment of kindness. If you ever shave with (sharp) double-edged blade, you may never go back to a cartridge.

Wednesday, wanted to run, but there is no place free from traffic. During past four months, brushed too many times by bus, car, motorcycle, scooter, and bicycle.

Bangladesh was ruled by the British Empire for nearly two centuries. In 1947, the country separated from India, and became East Pakistan. Bangladesh gained its independence from Pakistan in March 1971, following a nine-month civil war.

Dhaka, the capitol city, is home to 37-million people, second most populous city in the world, after Jakarta Indonesia (42-million). Bangladesh is home to 175-million people, and more than 90% of its population practice Islam, making it the fourth largest Muslim-practicing country in the world. Indonesia is the largest Muslim nation. Royal Bengal Tiger is the national animal. People speak Bengali, same language as in Kolkata.

Visit local pharmacy in Dhaka. Nurtec is a prescription medication to treat migraine. Pfizer patent expires 2039; eight tablets cost $1100 in the United States without insurance. Purchased generic Rimegepant (75 mg), eight tablets for $10 USD. Also purchased Excedrin (migraine) and vitamins, after searching for weeks. It is not sight-seeing, but, productive use of time and money. Air quality is consistently poor, left untreated, headaches may quickly morph in to a debilitating migraine.

THU 07 MAY: do not visit Cox Bazaar, the popular 120-kilometer long stretch of beach. Intention was to take overnight bus from Dhaka to Kolkata. I wilt like a flower after sunset, to wait for the midnight bus is agony for me. Often feel miserable (hungover) the next day. Instead, brief 30-minute flight (#4). Almost excited to return to India.

It is mango season in India. Yes, the mangoes are that good, noted, as some of the finest mangoes in the world. They are sweet, juicy, and tender. Always grateful when I peel and prepare a mango without removing any of my fingers.

Exit AirBnB, and walk to street corner. Local bus does not stop to pick me up. Bus slows down. I shout, airport? Conductor nods up and down, and pulls me into the bus. I stumble to the back of the bus and find an empty seat. Bus gradually empties out. Conductor comes back to talk with me. His English is broken, but he is thrilled to talk. An opportunity for me to share kindness; a smile, a laugh, a handshake.

Friday, wake up completely fatigued, no energy reserve. Need to check out of airport hotel to AirBnB. Ride Kolkata metro across the city, perhaps, the most miserable subway experience, ever. How many Indians fit into a train car. All of them. There must be an upper limit, right. Kolkata population, is one of the most dense in the world, with 80,000 people per square mile, for comparison, New York City is 30,000 people per square mile. At each station stop, people do not exit the train car, and more people smash their way on-board; claustrophobia is overwhelming.

When I first visited India, population was 1.2-billion (2011). Today, India is the most populous country in the world, with 1.5-billion. Population forecasted to peak at 1.8-billion (2060), an increase of 300-million people, the entire United States population.

SUN 10 MAY: early morning, no bus, metro not in service, Uber not terribly reliable. The streets are quiet, there are no iconic, yellow Ambassador (1962) taxi cabs to be seen.

Do not mind five-mile walk to airport, do mind stray dogs. Aggressive, angry, junkyard dog, guarding a useless shit heap pile of garbage. There are orange and green banners along the road side and on the ground. Bharatiya Janata party (BJP) of Prime Minister Modi, won a significant victory last week in West Bengal, the party’s first victory in the state, since he was elected in 2014. Flight (#5) from Kolkata to Bagdogra, share tuk tuk to nearby Siliguri, gateway to hill country. Collapse into bed at 7pm.

MON 11 MAY: slow travel on Darjeeling Himalayan Railroad (#8). Regret the experience even before departure. Hoped that the train would be cancelled. Completed 55-mile journey, 7,000 feet of elevation gain in ten-hours, three-hours behind schedule; bus or share-taxi (jeep) complete the journey in three to four hours.

Built in 1880, the UNESCO world heritage site (1999) is a narrow gauge (toy) train,; tracks are 2-feet wide, standard gauge tracks are almost 5-feet wide.

Narrow gauge train has a tighter turning radius than conventional trains. Tracks run parallel to the road, the views are the same regardless if rail or road. Nothing gained, except greater misery to endure. Route includes six zig-zag (reverse) hill climbs, and three loops. Train frequently crosses the road, from left to right, and back again (without warning lights or gates), as if a drunk, staggering home from the pub.

Train departed Siliguri one-hour late, due to mechanical issues. At Kurseong station, diesel engine broke down. Not sure if engineers repaired the engine, as much as they pounded the engine into submission with hammers. Beatings will continue until morale improves. Arrived at Darjeeling station, switch failure prevented train from entering the station, and I exited directly onto the street below.

Perhaps, worst ever train journey, and reminded, that the journey is the experience. May not be able to walk faster, but, definitely bicycle faster than this train. Diesel fumes gave me a headache; in contrast, steam engine covers passengers in soot. By the time that I exit the train in Darjeeling, I am so exhausted, I do not even care.

Tuesday, no alarm, wake up to sunrise, barking dogs, horns, and traffic. Good morning to you, too. Altitude 7,200 feet, at least 30-degrees (F) cooler than most of India. Wander the winding, narrow streets of Darjeeling, and chowk bazaar. Observe a level of poverty, people buy individual cigarettes at the corner bodega.

Observe extremes in behavior at a food stall; some people who quietly resign themselves to reality; other people who react violently with indignant anger. It is peak season in Darjeeling (March – May); observe Indian tourists, but few western tourists.

Food in India never disappoints. It is veg-friendly, and affordable (if not cheap). Cuisine changes from state to state, never get bored. Bold flavor, hot spices vary from shop to shop. First bite is often a shock, somehow, tastebuds adapt. Street food stalls; often stand, sometimes a plastic stool, a bench and table is indeed a luxury. Many challenging days, people push, shove, cut in line, and spit. Often at a small food stall, treated with great kindness, and a few kind words shared with the shop-keeper.

THU 14 MAY: do not enjoy these one-way destinations (Sapa Vietnam, Cat Ba Vietnam, Hampi India, Ooty India), effort is difficult to justify. Only want to leave Darjeeling. Maybe that is too much to ask. Maybe that is not going to happen today.

It is not bad luck. It is not a bad day. Simply another day in India, where it often appears that almost everything is barely held together with duct tape and bailing wire.

Board 8-pax jeep headed to Siliguri; it runs out of diesel shortly after departure. No surprise, really. I am sitting in the front (passenger) seat. There is not a single working gauge on the dashboard. Only the red and yellow warning lights appear to work.

Former colleague used to work aircraft maintenance. After one flight, pilot asked my friend to clear a fault warning in the flight deck. My friend covered the offending warning light with black electrical tape. Problem solved.

Jeep coasts downhill, and into the petrol station; crisis averted. We pass through Ghoom, or was it gloom, where rain and clouds give way to blue skies.

FRI 15 MAY: morning flight from Bagdogra to Kolkata (#6), backpack fits under the seat in front of me. Inter-India flights well-served by IndiGo. Airline frequently uses Airbus A321, configured with 220-230 seats; affordable flights were always full.

SAT 16 MAY: Kolkata sunrise 5am, early morning light. Metro does not yet operate, three-mile walk to Howrah Junction. City is quiet. Thunderstorm overnight; air is thick and uncomfortably humid. Walk past bustling flower market. Modern train (#9), chair class, breakfast and lunch included, during the 350-mile, six-hour journey to Gaya.

Sunday, to visit Bodhgaya is an exercise in disappointment, is there nothing sacred. Surrounding town is grotesquely distorted by citizens trying to make a living.

Bodhgaya is where Siddhārtha Gautama, the historical Buddha, found enlightenment. People often ask, what is enlightenment. When I taught meditation in the Texas prison system, often suggested that enlightenment is more ordinary, and less esoteric.

Enlightenment is to be aware, to be awake; to not be caught up in the thoughts, feelings, emotions of the (monkey) mind. Enlightenment, by its very nature, is ephemeral and fleeting; it exists one moment, and gone the next.

Attended church during grade school, received confirmation, and read the Bible (over one year). As an adult, practiced Zen Buddhism, sewed rakusu, and received Buddha’s precepts. I do not consider myself religious, spiritual, or Buddhist. I lean towards agnostic … open to something … but do not see any evidence of any god.

Challenge facing organized religion, is that it often appears corrupted and poisoned by people. Was it not Sartre, in his play, No Exit (1944), who said, hell is other people.

In a world of eight-billion people, I support religious freedom. However, I have limited tolerance for people who insist that their god is the only true god, and limited tolerance for people who insist that their religion is the only true religion, and no tolerance for self-righteous people who debase another person’s religion.

Does religion teach people how to co-exist and endure a lifetime of suffering. Does religion encourage kindness, compassion, and acceptance, or, does religion teach a narrow, intolerable, and intractable view of the world.

TUE 19 MAY: Gaya station, swarmed with people and flies. Main platform smells like a urinal; daytime temp, 105-110F, stench burns my nose. Morning train (#10) to Varanasi; tried to upgrade from Sleeper Class (SL), sold out. There are two hell realms further down: Second Sitting (2S) and Unreserved-General (UN/GEN).

Overnight train (from Howrah) arrived at the platform. Compartment door is blocked with bodies; crawl over people to my assigned seat. Some people give disgusted looks, like a mirror, I give them right back. I am a jedi master of stink eye. Open windows, no AirCon, temperature inside is at least 100F; reeks of body odor and armpit. Experience does not endear any traveler to India’s charms. Serenity now.

Thirty minutes prior to Varanasi, crawl from my seat to the exit. Exits are choked with people. This is how people get trampled to death. Do not enjoy getting touched by people, and I am getting touched by everyone. Cannot tell if people are tampering with my cargo pockets (passport, iPhone, credit card, currency).

Step onto the train platform, grateful that I only had to experience this once, and only for three hours. I could use shot of anything right about now. This is an India travel day that reminds me to only schedule one activity per day.

Walk to AirBnB, deeply foul mood, uncomfortable in the heat and intense sun. Wonder if India (Indians) get what they deserve, a terribly un-generous thought. Negative traits that I observed all morning, rude, crass, un-civil behavior, is a reflection of myself.

Wednesday, day trip to Sarnath, where the historical Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, shared his first teaching, and one of four holy sites of the Buddha. Round-trip taxi from Varanasi cost $15 USD. Alternatively, there is the electric E107 bus, from BHU-Lanka Road directly to the Buddha Museum (via Cantt Bus Stand). First bus departs 8:30am, round-trip fare, 70 rupees ($1 USD). Varanasi has no metro or tram.

Thursday, long since dark when I wake, to attend sunrise service at nearby, Assi Ghat, along the River Ganges. I follow three travel rules: do not touch animals, do not visit the zoo, do not enter any body of water. Did not bathe in the River Ganges.

You have not really lived until you have been hit by a scooter in southeast Asia. Scooter: 1 (won). Garth: 0 (zero). Inevitable. Narrow, one-meter wide pedestrian lanes along the ghat. Scooters and motorcycles insist on two-lane travel; remove rearview mirrors to avoid clipping obstacles, and all too often, talking on a smartphone, too.

Often times, there is no sidewalk. At other times, there is a sidewalk, but it is in a state of deconstruction, or littered with garbage, cow manure, dog shit, street vendors, or parked vehicles. Most of the time, people have to walk in the street, among traffic. Partially explains why my running mileage is so low, too; no place safe to run.

Right tibia clipped by passing scooter at medium rate of speed (25-mph). Tripped, regained footing, did not fall. No bleeding, no broken bones, no limp. Scrapes and abrasions, local swelling and bruising. No need for bandage, 12-hour Aleve to reduce initial discomfort. Pants remain in tact, no rips, even after the dog bite, too. During the week, tibia is very sore, bruises follow gravity, and right foot turned shade of purple.

FRI 22 MAY: 110-degrees (F), no coffee shops near Banaras Railway Station, too hot to wait for overnight train (#11) to Delhi. Train station offers variety of “retiring rooms” ranging from dorms to executive private. Use train reservation number, book “deluxe” room for nine hours ($9 USD); clean, quiet, AirCon, WiFi, tea/coffee/filtered water, couch, bed with clean linen, and hot shower.

Board train, fall asleep before 10pm departure. Awake at midnight, second migraine in six months, abort with Sumatriptan. Likely triggered by several factors: heat, poor air quality, poor sleep (all week), dull headache (all week), and food triggers.

Saturday, arrive New Delhi station mid-morning, check into nearby hotel. Yellow line (metro) to Apple Store (one of five in India), to replace (important) 1-meter iPhone charging cable. New cable in December, beginning to fray, do not like knock-offs.

Sunday, first met Davinder at JetBlue, friends for 20-years. Travel blue line (metro) towards Janakpuri, to share breakfast with his Father, delightful morning, indeed. Return metro journey quite unpleasant, harassed by a passenger pretending to be helpful, but, the behavior was simply creepy and deeply uncomfortable.

MON 25 MAY: final week in India, short of patience. There is no personal space in a country of 1.5-billion people. People knock into you, and hit you with their luggage; there is no remorse, no apology. Every day is like holiday shopping on Black Friday.

Six-hour train (#12) to Amritsar. Imagine you fly from New York City to California, six-hours, narrow body aircraft, six seats across. One person takes phone call on speaker, second person watches action movies on iPad without headphones, third person with lap child plays kiddie tunes on iPhone without headphones, fourth person snores so loud, reading light flickers overhead, fifth person coughs and sneezes without covering face and mouth, sixth person, that is YOU. Are we there yet.

Tuesday, wake at 3am for sunrise ceremony at Golden Temple, one of the most cherished places in Sikhism. Everyone is welcome, there are no caste differences. It is immaculately clean, even in the pre-dawn darkness, the white marble gleams bright.

In the afternoon, fifteen people clamber into tuk tuk for one-hour ride from Amritsar to Attari-Wagah border ($3 USD RT). Among the Indian tourists on-board, I appear to be the centerpiece, and sit next to the driver. It is an unremarkable ride, but strangely, an authentic and enjoyable experience. Less-crowded tuk tuk pass us on the road. Indians wave, smile, and thumbs up, and I gratefully return their gestures of kindness.

Arrive at India-Pakistan border for Beating Retreat Ceremony. Indian-side of the stadium is capacity crowd; overwhelming patriotism. Passport allows me to bypass security and sit in the VIP section. Theatrical ceremony dates back to 1957, with its well-mustachioed bravado and high kicks, but with the border closed since November, the most endearing moment, when the guards shake hands, is absent.

THU 28 MAY: wanted to cross border from India to Pakistan at Attari-Wagah, but closed since November 2025. Final train (#13) back to New Delhi. Continue to be amazed at the audacity of local citizens – middle-aged, able-bodied, no children – ask to switch seats on planes and trains. Arrive at the older, Delhi station, which is northeast of New Delhi station. Ride three metro stops to nearby hotel.

SAT 30 MAY: depart India before summer monsoon season begins. Asked to where I travel next. Demure, if possible, otherwise, reluctantly volunteer, Dubai, which is not entirely true. India and Pakistan are bitter enemies, there are no direct flights.

Purchased plane ticket via Dubai (Emirates) prior to Iran War. Second busiest airport in the world (after Atlanta), 1200 daily departures and 300,000 daily passengers. Flight operations severely disrupted in March by missile and drone attacks. Subsequently, purchased fully-refundable plane ticket via Istanbul (Turkish Airlines).

Check-in for flight to Dubai 48-hours prior to departure. Cancel back-up flight 25-hours prior to departure. Midnight metro from hotel to Delhi airport. Check-in at airport desk. Agent reviews flight reservation, India visa, Pakistan visa, and proof of onward flight from Islamabad Pakistan. Agent visibly gasps, and called over a supervisor. They speak in Hindi; passport returned with boarding pass.

Flight to Dubai and Karachi without incident, pleasant surprise. Stamped into the country without argument, welcome to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.

When going through hell, keep going (Winston Churchill)

Do not enjoy telling people what to do. If you are planning your first journey to India, offer the following suggestions for the uninitiated, otherwise, please ignore, please.

ARRIVAL: upon arrival to India, stay in the best hotel within your budget, ideally, one that includes breakfast. You may be jet-lagged and fatigued. Remain in place for two or three days; time to adjust to the heat and humidity, filth, poor air quality, and aggressive (tourist) touts.
LODGING: stay in the best possible (private room) lodging as possible. I had good luck with AirBnB and better hotels. Ignore most on-line reviews, except for travelers from Europe or North America. Select between two properties, choose the better (AirCon not ceiling fan). Nothing gained by wasting time and money having to change (day of) accommodations.
BUDDY: if possible, travel to India with a buddy; beneficial to have eyes in the back of your head. Joy shared is multiplied; pain shared is divided.
RABIES: India leads the world in annual rabies deaths (20,000 of 60,000 cases), transmitted 99% by dogs. India has more than 60-million stray dogs (Italy population: 60-million). If bite punctures skin (CAT III exposure), patient requires at least six vaccinations over 30-days: human/equine rabies immunoglobulin, four (4) anti-rabies vaccine, and tetanus. Public (government) hospitals are required to treat rabies at no cost. If travel to remote corner of India, far from hospital, consider vaccination prior to departure from home country. Booster shots required if exposed to rabies more than 91-days since last treatment. Rabies is 99% fatal, there is no treatment after central nervous system compromised by the virus, and symptoms manifest.
TRAIN: (overnight) train remains one of the best ways to experience India. Popular routes, in popular classes (2AC, 3AC, CC) sell out in advance. Tickets may be purchased easily on-line using 12Go up to 60-90 days in advance. Given the size of the country, flights are inevitable. IndiGo offers affordable flights and good service. Bus service is consistently underwhelming.
ACTIVITY: only plan one scheduled activity per day: train, flight, bus, or visit a key site (ie. Taj Mahal). You may always cram more into your day, but give yourself down time when you reach your limit (begging, filth, garbage, heat, humidity, manure, shit, spitting, touts). India is one of the few countries that teaches a person to travel slowly, else punished severely.
PAYMENT: on-line reservations use credit card., otherwise, use India’s digital Unified Payments Interface (UPI) linked to credit card, or rupees (INR).
HEALTH: wash hands whenever possible to minimize risk of diarrhea: if there is no soap, use water, if there is no water, use hand sanitizer.
WEATHER: travel seasons: winter (cold: Dec–Feb), summer (hot & dry: Mar–May), monsoon (hot & wet: Jun–Sep), autumn (moderate: Oct–Nov).

Cost: cumulative travel costs, during past 156-days.

India is cash-based economy (currency over credit card); able to use tourist version of India’s digital Unified Payments Interface (UPI) to reduce reliance on Indian Rupee.

Currencies: Philippine Peso (PHP), Myanmar Kyat (MMK), Thailand Baht (THB), Laos Kip (LAK), Cambodia Riel (KHR), Vietnamese Dong (VND), Maldivian Rufiyaa (MVR), Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR), Bhutanese Ngultrum (BTN), Nepalese Rupee (NPR), Indian Rupee (INR), Bangladeshi Taka (BDT), Pakistani Rupee (PKR).

Conclusion: enough. Visited India three-months in total across two journeys (2011, 2026), and extended India its fair consideration. Cannot identify compelling reason to return for solo travel. However, if my fearless friend wanted to visit India (um … Cathy), would certainly join the fun. Grateful for multiple-entry India visa, beneficial gateway to visit five neighboring countries: Maldives, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, Nepal, and Bangladesh.

One person may argue that s/he deserves first class hotel, black car service, room service, and cocktails on the beach. Another person may argue that s/he deserves nothing, and is entitled to nothing. For now, we still live in a free country, and for now, there still exists freedom of speech. We each have the freedom to travel, and spend our hard-earned dollars, in a manner that is most suitable. Your mileage may vary.

You have not really lived until you have swum in the River Ganges.
George J. Willauer, Jr | Professor Emeritus, English | Connecticut College

India

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