Bhutan

Introduction: journey continues, Vietnam to Maldives (via New Delhi), to Sri Lanka, to Bhutan (via New Delhi), and onward to Nepal.

Perhaps I was born anxious, hard-wired reptilian brain, un-resilient behavior. Maybe that is why I am introverted and shy, coping mechanism of sorts, and maybe, that is why I fall into the depths of suicide ideation, an even less effective coping mechanism.

War in the Middle East … makes an already uncertain journey more uncertain. Reminded that there is no end to suffering, impermanence, or uncertainty; may I endure them. Planning is essential, but plans are useless. My back-up plans require back-up plans. Stable ground under foot … likely not, likely never … I see you Mara.

I am okay if travel sucks, like a vacuum cleaner or a jet engine. No one promised me a rose garden, maybe that was a recruiting poster. It is easier to surrender expectations. Do not require picture postcard adventures, allow the journey to unfold like a slow-motion dumpster-fire, train-wreck, and tolerate my existence amongst the smoldering wreckage. Warm-up to the certainty of never-ending uncertainty. Life repeats the lesson until the lesson is learned, and maybe, the lesson is never learned.

SUN 01 MAR: bus-ferry-bus-walk to Hai Phong. It is a local bus, I am the only tourist. Most tourists travel directly from Cat Ba to Hà Nội. There are several screaming (miscreant) toddlers on-board, the piercing noise is pitched higher than a piccolo.

Ferry port is industrial and ugly, follow the locals in front of me, this is not a place to be left behind. Hai Phong is a modern, vibrant city. Lacking tourists, except one, it feels more authentic than Ho Chi Minh City or Hà Nội. There remain scattered remnants of French-style architecture, low-slung buildings with tall, weathered, wooden shutters.

Monday, wake at 5am, one hour for body-mind to wake-up. It is suggested to run at sunrise, when aggressive traffic and scooters are less dense. Morning run along the flower-lined pedestrian mall and boulevard. Space is busy and active, and oozes with positive energy. Some people perform Tai Chi, others play badminton, people walk and run. Sight another barefoot runner, we exchange thumbs-up.

TUE 03 MAR: heavy rain overnight, local streets flooded, sidewalks coated in mud; find alternate route to the train station. Final train, slow train, they are all slow, to Hà Nội. AirBnB is located down a deep alley in the bustling old quarter; deceptively quiet at night; no need for earplugs.

Wednesday, sunrise run, with all the movers and shakers along Hoàn Kiếm Lake. Visit the National Art Museum, thoughtful collection, with ceramics, statuary, lacquer, silkscreen, and canvas, with signage in Vietnamese and English. Mostly appreciated the silence, a break from the din of the city, deafening horns of traffic.

FRI 06 MAR: walk to Hà Nội train station, #86 express bus to the airport ($2 USD). Scooter passes me, equipped with outriggers, delivered pallets of eggs to various street food vendors. If there is an accident, that will be a big pile of scrambled eggs.

Not able to check-in on-line, ticket counter verified tourist visa. Obtained five-year, multiple-entry tourist visa from NYC consulate before departing United States. Also need to apply on-line for eArrival to India up to 96-hours prior; a lot to remember.

Vietnam Airlines, thrice-weekly service to New Delhi, four-hour evening flight. Flight lands on-time, immigration is efficient. Arranged airport pick-up with the hotel, but does not appear; getting late for orange metro line; Uber to hotel ($5 USD). Check into hotel, WiFi not working, hotel swaps out my room, do not get to bed until 2am.

Saturday, as if on cue, wake at sunrise, little sleep. Hotel comps breakfast in exchange for the fouled airport pick-up. I lack the patience or ability to mask my toxic and foul mood, and it only gets worse when I venture out into a very filthy city. Have to watch the ground, and try to not step in cow manure, dog shit, diarrhea, or mud. It is so dirty, that flies attract flies. “Remember boys, flies spread disease, so keep yours closed” (Band of Brothers, Episode 3, Carentan, 2001).

People want to talk with me, but I do not want to talk, at the risk of appearing rude. I am viewed as a walking ATM. Mangled bodies and orphans beg for money; more nefarious people want to extract a commission. I get commandeered to the tourist office twice to buy train tickets (I do not need train tickets, thank you). It is gravely tedious. Took all morning to successfully exchange currency at Connaught Circle.

After searching for eight weeks, find tube (not a can) of shaving cream. Past mid-day, go indoors to escape the heat (92F, 33C) and intense sun, and to spare my bleeding ears from the incessant vehicular horns, will likely depart India, more deaf.

Last journey to India was September 2011, no iPhone, only photocopy of Lonely Planet maps. Traveled to 70 of 200 countries, and India appears that it will be no less challenging than fifteen years ago, even with an iPhone. What have I done.

MON 09 MAR: Uber drivers in New Delhi have a reputation for accepting a ride but not appearing. Elect to take the orange metro line to the airport (<$1 USD). Downside, is that I have to travel before service ends at midnight. Morning service does not allow enough time to obtain boarding pass, clear immigration and security.

Morning flight delayed one hour, and sleep most of the four-hour flight to Malé Maldives. Taxi to the gate, and observe Aeroflot (Аэрофлот) taxi to the runway, bound for Moscow Sheremetyevo. Immigration is efficient, complete on-line eArrival within 96-hours. Brief wait for fast ferry to Maafushi. Sun is bright and intense, there are no paved streets, simply narrow lanes of blinding, white sand, and walk with bare feet.

Republic of Maldives gained its independence from the United Kingdom in 1965. Maldives is comprised of 26 atolls, with 115 square mile land area (300 km²), yet covers 35,000 square miles (90,000 km²). There are a total of 1200 islands; 500,000 citizens live on 200 islands, with tourist resorts on 100 islands, the remaining islands are uninhabited. Average elevation is four feet above sea level; there was extensive destruction following the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami.

Maldives may be an expensive destination, all-inclusive resort ($500-$1000 per night). In contrast, Maafushi is a dry (no alcohol) “local” island. It is impossible to ignore Islam, with the notable call to prayer five times per day. If you wish to imbibe, must visit an offshore “bar boat.” I am not a beach person, but difficult to resist the Maldives, given its proximity to India.

Stay at a reasonably-priced AirBnB, which includes breakfast. Some of the more remote islands have longer (and fewer) ferry transfers, or require seaplane transfer. Interestingly, dogs are prohibited in the Maldives, see cats, but not many. Small island (about 1-mile long) is mostly clean; locals rake leaf detritus every morning.

Tuesday, wanted to run along the beach, but instead, I run to the toilet, with some kind of explosive diarrhea. It is easier to remove my pants and remain seated on the toilet. Grab a good book, who needs to sit on the beach and read. It is like a two-hour endurance event. Do not know what I ate, or drank, but clearly, my body is not happy.

Wednesday, dawn run, because the sun, heat, and humidity is far too intense. Looked into half-day trip, but mostly snorkeling, and I do not enjoy snorkeling. If you had my ears (eustachian tube dysfunction), you would not enjoy it either, it really hurts.

Thursday, fast ferry to Malé; slam into waves at high speed, airborne passengers.

FRI 13 MAR: day is brutally long, 20-hours. Ferry from Malé to airport, 90-minute morning flight to Colombo, Sri Lanka. Must apply for electronic travel authorization ($50 USD). On-line system unstable, twelve attempts inside 24-hours, and not allowed to enter the country without the ETA. Recommend applying two weeks prior to entry; once submitted on-line, approved within 24-hours.

Wanted to travel from Colombo to Ella via train, through the dramatic hill-country. However, Cyclone Ditwah ravaged the country in late November; landslides obliterated the train tracks. Kandy requires not only new tracks, but terrain features to prevent future landslides, which may take more than one year. Struggle to find reasonable transit, and splurge on a private taxi for the five-hour drive ($125 USD); arrive in Ella at 5pm, instead of midnight bus arrival.

Saturday, still have (bacterial) diarrhea since Monday; purchase antibiotic at pharmacy, could only obtain Cipro, which gives me a headache. Able to reach the various trail heads without transportation, and hike the nine-arch train span, and Little Adams Peak, which offers stunning views of the dramatic landscape and well-manicured, tea plantations.

Sunday, wake up, enter bathroom, place contact lens case on edge of sink, fail to notice cambered contour, and watch in horror, as contact lens case slides into the sink, and down the drain (no stopper). I can see the case, but cannot extricate with my fingers. Think-think-think. Run to the kitchen in my underwear, grab two butter knives, and work like chopsticks to “rescue” the contact lens case, crisis averted.

Day begins with brilliant blue skies, sunshine, clean air, bird song, and the distinct cry of the peacock. Hike to nearby Ella Rock, fairly strenuous and steep climb. By mid-afternoon, sky clouds over, distinct smell of wildfire smoke, and the skies open up with heavy rain. Grateful to not get caught in the soaking deluge and mud.

Monday, #31 local (direct) bus from Ella to Galle; 150-mile journey, six hours (7am-1pm), depart from Ella bus stand to Galle central bus station, cost 800 rupees ($3 USD). Journey was not as bad as purported by other travelers. Bus originates from Budulla; standing room only until Wellawaya. Reverted back to standing room only between Hambantota and Matara. Bus was hot and crowded, no AirCon. Share this description for the benefit of other travelers. Good value, less expensive than $40 USD share taxi or $100 USD private taxi, and a unique experience to observe life.

Check into AirBnB inside historic Galle Fort. Connect to WiFi, but WiFi does not work. Manager not able to resolve, and scramble to find another AirBnB with WiFi.

Tuesday, third class train, open windows, to Colombo. There is no limit to third class tickets; how many sweaty bodies may be stuffed into a sweltering train car. Exchange remaining rupees back to US dollars. Agent hands me what appears to be a fake five-dollar bill; politely ask for one-dollar bills, which are beneficial at land borders.

Sri Lanka gained its independence from the United Kingdom in 1948. For twenty-five years (1983-2009), Sri Lanka was locked in a civil war, between the majority Sinhalese and the minority Tamils, over a separate state in the northeast corner of the island; resulted in the death of 100,000 people, violating human rights, and war crimes.

Wednesday, did not enjoy Galle or Colombo; #187 bus from Bastian Mawatha bus stand in Colombo, direct to Bandaranaike departure terminal. Cost $125 to travel from airport to Ella, and cost $5 to travel from Ella to the airport over three days.

THU 19 MAR: midnight departure to New Delhi. Board aircraft, email notification, airport bus to Agra cancelled. Arrive 4am, customs harassed me for being un-married and childless. Train to Agra full (waitlist), too early for Metro (subway), Uber to Sarai Kale Khan Bus Terminal. Sky is dark, lots of pointing and Hindi, but find my way among the buses along the curb, as if, virulent toddler left behind scattered toys. Bus does not depart for Agra until it is full, and then, it is standing room only.

Long and tiring day, reminded that I control nothing. How do I greet (and accept) a reality that I do not want. Develop improved understanding of deceit: people with nothing to lose. Go to bed early (8pm); never felt quite so disappointed in myself.

Wake in middle of the night, twice, intense itching. Not mosquitos, but chiggers (mites). Following the second attack, turn on laptop, and find alternate lodging.

Friday, Taj Mahal is closed for weekly prayer at mosque; 15% of the Agra population is Muslim. Men wear their best, white clothing – Sunnah practice – to symbolize purity, cleanliness, and spiritual sincerity. Eid al-Fitr, one of the most celebrated festivals in Islam, marks the end of Ramadan, the month-long, dawn-to-dusk fasting.

Instead, visit Agra Fort, and explore the city on foot. Sound of thunder in the distance, and scattered rain drops, temperature is considerably cooler. Pass ramshackle lunch counter, perhaps, one-step removed from food-poisoning. Serve hot-buttered roti with various condiments (potatoes, lentils, etc.). Sit down and join the locals (<$1 USD). Lentils have some fiery kick, they are hot, but not so nuclear that tastebuds stop working. Owner takes pictures of me eating, the rare tourist.

Saturday, visit Taj Mahal at sunrise. Do not control the weather, and the white marble mausoleum veiled behind dense fog. Crowds quickly become claustrophobic. Day trip to Agra in 2011, late in the day, and viewed Taj Mahal from Mehtab Bagh, on the far side of Yamuna River. Return to hotel rooftop for breakfast. Put down my plate for coffee, and a monkey (Rhesus macaque), steals my hard-boiled egg and banana crepe.

SUN 22 MAR: morning train from Agra Cantt to Delhi – Hazrat Nizamuddin. Purchased all my train tickets on 12Go, easier to coordinate than India train website. 12Go does not sell all the routes, but most of the popular tourist routes. Use IXIGO app to re-confirm seat assignment (PNR), and the live tracking is greatly beneficial (if train is on-time or delayed and correct boarding platform). Survive my first train without drama.

Traveled seven days in India, the experience lies somewhere between an assault on the senses and sensory overload. Do not understand how to reflect on six weeks in India. New Delhi and Agra have the reputation for the most aggressive touts in India. My best analogy of a tout, is when a mean person torments a dog or cat.

There are many dogs and monkeys, subtle reminder that India has the highest death rate from rabies in the world, 35% of all deaths, 20,000 people. I received the full vaccine last year, but, would require a booster if bitten by a stray dog, cat, or monkey.

MON 23 MAR: have more time than common sense, and walk (5km) to New Delhi Terminal 3, along a mostly well-lit sidewalk, and accumulate a few odd looks along the way. Early morning, two-hour flight to Bhutan, and spy Mount Everest, quite surreal.

Kingdom of Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon, constitutional monarchy with a parliament and prime minister. Its king may be impeached following a two-thirds majority vote. No person is above the law. Seventy percent of the country’s 800,000 citizens practice Vajrayāna Buddhism. Traditional dress is the norm, men wear gho and women wear kira, formalized to preserve Bhutanese identity in a modern world.

First migraine in five months, did not take Diamox early enough for altitude (at least 12-hours prior); migraine responded to Sumatriptan; to sleep perchance to dream.

Might wonder why I do not stay longer. May only visit Bhutan with a tour guide, and must also pay $100 daily sustainable development fee (per adult | $50 per child). Elect shortest possible journey, five-days. Indian rupee and Bhutan Ngultrum pegged one-to-one, and choose to not exchange US dollars.

In Thimphu, visit National Memorial Chorten (white stupa) at sunset, mesmerized by the dancing flames of the dramatic butter lamps. In Paro, hiked swiftly to Tiger’s Nest (Paro Taktsang), monastery perched on a steep cliff at 3,100-meters.

Bhutan offers dramatic, but also, stark landscape. Enjoyed Bhutan, and the Bhutanese treated me with great kindness. Coordinated tour with Tsenrig Palden, owner of Maebar Travel in Thimphu. Prefer independent travel, but enjoyed the brief respite from never-ending travel logistics.

FRI 27 MAR: pre-dawn darkness, guide drops me off at the airport in Paro; we do not say goodbye, but, see you later. Early morning flight to Kathmandu Nepal. Visa on arrival ($30 USD), and exit the airport for local bus to city center; already miss the beauty of Bhutan and kindness of its people.

Do not enjoy Kathmandu; how is anything sacred among so much squalor. Wanted to travel south to Chitwan, but, would have to backtrack to Kathmandu for onward travel to Pokhara. Coordinate series of day trips from Kathmandu, combination of local bus and walking: Patan Square, Buddha Stupa, Bhaktapur Square, Durbar Square, and monkey temple (Swayambhunath). An 8.0-magnitude earthquake in April 2015 destroyed many historic and cultural sites, and many are still being restored.

Kathmandu is visibly scarred following the September 2025 Gen-Z riots, after the government, plagued by decades of corruption, tried to restrict free speech on social media platforms. Government buildings gutted by fire: Supreme Court, Parliament, Office of the Attorney General, President’s office, and Prime Minister’s residence. Commercial businesses un-spared, looted and set ablaze: major hypermarkets, banks, Hilton and Hyatt Hotels. Former prime minister fled the country and subsequently arrested; former mayor of Kathmandu elected prime minister earlier this month.

Cost: cumulative travel costs, during past 95-days.

India and Nepal are cash-based economies (currency over credit card).

Currencies: Philippine Peso (PHP), Myanmar Kyat (MMK), Thailand Baht (THB), Laos Kip (LAK), Cambodia Riel (KHR), Vietnamese Dong (VND), Maldivian Rufiyaa (MVR), Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR), Bhutanese Ngultrum (BTN), Indian Rupee (INR), Nepalese Rupee (NPR).

Conclusion: travel the world and often observe the inherent, brutal nature of man. Two-thousand years of progress, kill more people, kill more quickly. Observe the current administration, wonder if politics is no different than war. Man does not want to reconcile differences, man wants to be “right” at any cost, even if it is a pyrrhic victory. “War is a continuation of politics by other means” (von Clausewitz).

Prime Minister Netanyahu plays the president as a greater fool than Putin, and leads the United States into a muddled war against Iran. President flummoxed after NATO demurred to secure Strait of Hormuz. No country stands alone. No man is an island.

In the Middle East the opposite of autocracy is not democracy, it is “disorder.” When dictatorships are decapitated, they implode (Libya), or explode (Syria).
New York Times, Thomas Friedman, March 2nd 2026, Trump’s War with Iran

Travel the world, often perceived as the ugly American, and even more difficult following the attack on Iran. Historically, the United States is very poor at regime change, and the attack yields even greater instability in the Middle East. Fighting obscures travel and clouds planning, from southeast to central Asia, and onwards to the Caucasus (June-July); I am not immune, and will likely fall into the morass.

Student: my mind is anxious, please, pacify my mind
Master: bring me your mind and I will pacify it for you
Student: I have searched for my mind, but I cannot grasp it
Master: there – I have pacified your mind for you
Mumonkan, Gateless Barrier, Case 41

Shadows chase shadows, but, the mind (thought, feeling, emotion) is calm in its emptiness; the burden is removed from my back, and realize that I carried nothing.

Bhutan

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