San Miguel de Allende:
San Miguel is a small colonial town, located in eastern Guanajuato state, in the Bajio mountains, and is named after friar Juan de San Miguel, a martyr for Mexican Independence, and Ignacio Allende. City was named UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) world heritage site in 2008. Economy is driven largely by tourism, with a large (sometimes seasonal) expat population from Canada, Europe, and the United States.
Arrived via local bus, just over an hour; picked-up and dropped-off passengers almost everywhere; one mile walk to hostel, where I had a shared room. City is expensive, and private rooms in centro weren’t reasonably affordable. With its boutique hotels, spas, coffee shops, and organic grocery stores (serving wheatgrass shots), San Miguel may make a person feel poor, in contrast to other parts of Mexico that I have visited.
Visited Tianguis de los Martes (Tuesday market), a large outdoor market, held weekly just outside of town, stretching nearly 1,000 feet on concrete pads, where almost anything and everything is for sale: produce, antiques, blown glass, hand-carved furniture, pirated DVDs, computers, tablets, boom-boxes, hand made huaraches, Barbie dolls, goldfish, pet birds, tools, bicycles, buttons, used and new clothes, fresh fish, local honey, and cheese. Vendors are not all from San Miguel, but work a circuit of similar weekly outdoor markets in Queretaro and Guanajuato. Experience is tiring, with shouting, dust, confusing layout, and few prices, but did go home with purple cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and fresh queso.
There is a local park, less than a mile away; it has some outdoor exercise equipment, which I used each morning. Visited the local art gallery, which I always find refreshing; there was a quotation outside that said, “art washes from the soul the dust of everyday life.”
One has to be mindful walking the sidewalks; sometimes, gutters or downspouts from the second floor spit out dirty water from the washing machines (lavadora) unexpectedly. Many of the streets are paved with rectangular stones; other streets are paved with smooth river rock. Some of the streets are quite steep; even on dry days, cars slip driving uphill, and one may hear the tires squealing; can only imagine how slippery the road surface becomes during summer monsoon season.
Met Iman, age 72, at the hostel; she is a retired school teacher from California, who lives in San Miguel; she owns a home in town, and is currently having the kitchen and bathroom remodeled. She is a world traveler, and enjoys visiting the Balkans and Turkey; enjoyed talking with her in the morning over breakfast. We visited the local art gallery on Saturday afternoon, for its monthly open house; gallery is housed in an old cotton mill; it’s nice to see how the property was restored and re-used; when it likely could have been easily bulldozed.
Exploring the city, came across a brand new City Market grocery story, likely, the nicest grocery store that I have ever seen, including any Whole Foods Market. The store is clearly targeting expatriates that aren’t concerned with cost. I certainly wouldn’t shop here, and the store certainly made me feel poor. Eleanor Roosevelt suggested that “no one can make you feel inferior without your consent,” but, I’m not so sure.
Santiago de Queretaro:
Queretaro is the largest city and capital of Queretaro state; city was declared a UNESCO world heritage city in 1996. It’s a fairly large and modern city, located 125-miles northwest of Mexico City. I was able to drop off my backpack at the AirBnB and explore the city in the afternoon. This was fortunate, because I developed a migraine that afternoon, and was incapacitated the next day (TUE April 5th). Couldn’t sit-up; couldn’t stand-up; nausea was overwhelming, and not able to eat or drink for two days. Normally, I’m a fairly productive person; I don’t sit around, and it’s just frustrating to lose a day. It also likely explains my weight loss during the trip (between five and ten pounds).
Pachuca de Soto:
Pachuca is the largest city and capitol of Hidalgo state, and is 50-miles north of Mexico City; its economy is largely driven by mining.
Walked to the Queretaro bus station; 2.5-miles, which was a bit of a struggle following the prior day migraine. Bus ride was almost four hours; migraine came back as I arrived in the city, likely not helped being at 8,000 feet elevation. Didn’t have the ability to walk the two miles to the AirBnB, and took the colectivo, definitely worth the $0.50 USD. Checked into the AirBnB at noon, and went to bed; could no longer sit-up. AirBnB located over a noisy street; music from the AirBnB hosts was loud; complete form of hell, as sleep was delirious, and body fluctuating between chills and overheated. Woke up feeling marginally better Thursday morning; explored the city briefly, which was underwhelming, dirty, graffiti, and cold (65-degrees), and returned to AirBnB to work on my laptop. Was going to take a shower in the evening; there was no water at the AirBnB; informed host; pump truck delivered water to the apartment an hour later; strange things happen in Mexico that likely wouldn’t occur in the United States; slow death by paper cut.
Generally pleased to leave the city; taking local bus to Mexico City ($3 USD). Felt wonderful to return to a robust city; took subway from Terminal de Autobus Norte into centro. Subway at 9am was crowded; waited for four trains to get on-board a car with available space. Don’t enjoy getting on a crowded subway car, as its difficult to be vigilant against theft. When passed through the metro station, vendor was selling tortas (sandwich); purchased an egg (huevo) torta ($0.50 USD); roll was nice, fluffy, and soft; the egg was cooked and folded like an omelet; and the bread coated with refried beans, with spicy peppers and tomatoes. Ate after exiting the metro; usually prefer to sit down, rather than multi-task; tasted fantastic.
Not able to check into AirBnB early, so found a Starbucks to get some work done on the laptop, and treated myself to a highly-caffeinated cup of coffee ($1 USD | muy chica), and feeling like a superhero. First visit to Starbucks since visiting Mexico.
Can see why people tend to take shorter, but more expensive resort vacations. Much more pleasant experience than budget travel, which is certainly taxing at times.
Throughout Mexico, would often see this blue stuffed animal on street vendor carts. Turns out that it is Huggy Wuggy, a bear, from the survival horror video game, Poppy Playtime; it has a friend, too, named Kissy Missy (she’s pink). My nephew, Grant, celebrates his birthday when I return home – so – please don’t spoil the surprise.
Other thoughts:
After high school, studied classical music at university. Subsequently dropped out when I recognized that I was unskilled, and had no intention of being a starving artist. Had few skills at the time, and enlisted in the Marine Corps to provide a greater sense of discipline and direction. No regrets; it was one of the better decisions in my life, in a lifetime strewn with underwhelming decisions.
In a similar manner, don’t enjoy drifting during the past three years; and have been wondering if I should return to the Zen Buddhist monastery. There are advantages, it provides discipline and structure. There are also disadvantages, as it limits freedom and flexibility, and makes me part of an “institution.” One alternative, is that it’s possible to meditate and study on my own; explored this approach last fall in Silver City, New Mexico; alternatively, could spend summers working at Tassajara Zen Mountain Center, near Big Sur.
Lived at Green Gulch Farm Zen Center in winter 2020, arriving several weeks before the pandemic. It wasn’t the experience that I was expecting. I sat meditation in my room for more than a decade. Due to the pandemic, we were told to sit meditation in our rooms. Ugh. I appreciated the rigor of the monastic schedule; also appreciated the rigor of the meditation hall; peer pressure was constructive, for example, not moving during seated meditation; it’s also, at times, a very beautiful experience, with the candles, incense, bowing, and chanting in the pre-dawn darkness. If choose to return, it must be on the merits of sincere Zen practice; anything else would be disingenuous. Finished re-reading the Ten Ox-Herding Pictures; appreciate its simple wisdom (Zen Flesh Zen Bones | Paul Repps | 1998).
It’s said that we each have Buddha nature; the nature to be awake, aware, and equanimous; it is not something that is discovered, earned, given, or purchased; we reveal our own Buddha nature – in time – much like wiping grime off of a beautiful antique. It’s likely obvious from recent blog posts that my mind is agitated – no judgment implied, simply an observation – and that I should be meditating more, not less.
I’m not convinced that I will ever find any sense of meaning, purpose, happiness, or equanimity. My friend, Jani, is intuitively intelligent; he suggested that I write a memoir, titled “Giving up on Happiness.” He’s the same friend who suggested that I would be happier if I spent more money on crack and whores.
In the ox-herding pictures, the ox presents – or reveals – itself when the person stops seeking the ox. Further, the teaching of the Fukanzazengi reminds Zen students “why leave behind the seat that exists in your home and go aimlessly off to the dusty realms of other lands.” A gentle reminder, after spending four dusty months in Mexico. Hasta luego.
Mexico City Loop: MON April 4th – MON April 18th 2022
Ciudad de Mexico to Tepoztlan Morelos (SUN April 10th)
Tepoztlan to Cuernavaca Morelos (TUE April 12th)
Cuernavaca to Taxco Guerrero (THU April 14th)
Taxco to Toluca Mexico (SAT April 16th)
Toluca to Ciudad de Mexico (MON April 18th)
Ciudad de Mexico to United States (SAT April 23rd)
garthmonroe 