Puebla:
Puebla, 60-miles southeast of Mexico City, is the fourth largest city in Mexico, and lies in a valley surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. It was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 1987, and has the largest Volkswagen production facility outside Germany.
Cinco de Mayo, the fifth of May, is an annual celebration commemorating Mexico’s victory over France at the 1862 Battle of Puebla at nearby Fort Loreto, led by General Zaragoza.
Budget:
Living in Mexico five weeks; total trip cost $903, $25 per day; annualized cost $9,000. AirBnB charges to credit card; all other expenses, use pesos, local currency. Use Scotiabank for no-fee ATM withdrawals from Bank of America account, typically 2,000 pesos ($100 USD).
Quoted exchange rate is 20 pesos to the dollar; bank buy rate is 21; bank sell rate is 19. Try not to carry excess cash in my pocket than what is needed for the day (ie. bus, market).
- Lodging: $596 total | $16 day (AirBnB)
- Transport: $196 total | $5 day (United | train | bus & subway)
- Food: $67 total | $2 day (open market | grocery store | street food)
- Other: $44 total | $1 day (foreign exchange | razor blades)
Heard from other AirBnB guests, that they sometimes extend their stay outside AirBnB reservation system, paying a lower rate, eliminating the middle-man (AirBnB). On the surface, this appears to violate AirBnB policy. I find AirBnB platform useful in finding lodging; imagine if “everyone” engaged in such behavior, travelers would be harmed.
AirBnB hosts have provided potable drinking water, using 20-liter containers, or garrafon, similar to the office water cooler. Water in Mexico is treated, however, there are line breaks that expose water to bacteria, and hence the need for most people to drink bottled water.
In terms of activities, usually find things to do that are free. For example, many Mexican museums are free on Sunday. Free activities provide a different perspective, than fee-based tourist attractions; no judgement implied; not better, not worse; just a different experience.
Remember visiting the Hermitage in St Petersburg, Russia (2010); tourists paid a higher rate than locals; India’s Taj Mahal (2011), had a similar policy, charging more for tourists. Will share next budget update at end of February after visiting Guadalajara and Tequila.
WED January 19th:
Took ADO bus from Oaxaca, $33 USD, departed 8:00am. Bus was less than half full; was the only “gringo” and sat behind the driver. Arrived at CAPU bus terminal 1:00pm, and took colectivo to Puebla centro. Mexico bus system is organized and civil. When I traveled to Cuba (2018), traveled via bus, often waited on the platform; bus destination wasn’t always marked, and often no departure announcements. Never missed a bus; buses were on-time; but the experience at the bus terminal was stressful in comparison.
There was a movie on-board, Ordinary Love (2019), with Liam Neeson and Lesley Manville. Movie documents the relationship of this older, married couple, following her diagnosis with breast cancer. Having lost two dear family members to cancer, there was a raw, emotional element to the movie. Movie was in Spanish, no sub-titles; as I followed along, may see how watching television may aid in the development of foreign language skills.
Puebla is at 7,000 feet; weather here is cool; daytime high 70-degrees. AirBnB is south of centro; mostly quiet at night, no nightclubs nearby, but dogs next door, bark with abandon.
AirBnB “feels” run down. My room has a private bathroom; toilet, sink, and shower are in a single compartment, similar to the bathrooms that I experienced in India (2011). Bathroom has an “electric” shower heater; water never gets hot, mostly lukewarm. Toilet didn’t flush; messaged the host; plumber repaired. Beds are lumpy; without a mattress pad, can feel bedsprings; maybe the mattress was purchased “used.” Started sleeping on the floor.
My host, Jorge, is nice; similar to the other hosts, he is kind and means well. I met Janet, age 71, an experienced world traveler from Maine; also met Paul, age 53, from Chicago, an intrepid and fearless world traveler; enjoyed talking with both of them, and comparing notes.
Food:
Continue to explore Mexican “street” food; mole tamale; cemita, sandwich, but smaller than the oversize torta; gordita, small pancake served with Nutella – who doesn’t like Nutella; elote, corn on the cob served on a stick; smothered in mayonnaise, and dusted with cotija cheese and chili powder. Both Mercado 5 de Mayo, and Mercado Hidalgo have no shortage of affordable and flavorful street food options.
Sights:
During first four days in Puebla, walked 40-miles exploring the city. City isn’t compact; if nothing else, get a feel for the city by exploring on foot. Wasn’t burdened with a backpack, and its a form of exercise. It became tiring; was looking for an open market to purchase sundries; grocery stores in comparison, are sterile. Was also looking for a public park that might have some outdoor “gym” equipment to exercise. Can see why people may not travel like this; it’s tiring; it’s not always fun; it’s not always entertaining; it’s too much work.
Museo Amparo was likely my “favorite” destination; visited the museum twice. Museum had classic and modern art, and antiquities; some signage was in English, which was beneficial. Some of the art felt like a “Rorschach test” allowing some type of personal reflection.
Museum also has a rooftop bar, with great views of the city. Enjoyed an art piece by Belgium-born artist, Francis Alys, titled Paradox of Praxis 1, Sometimes Making Something Leads to Nothing (1997), in which a block of ice is pushed through the streets of Mexico City, until there is nothing left.
Visited Museo Nacional de los Ferrocarriles, local railroad museum; enjoy train travel, having traveled from Beijing to London, via Mongolia, on the Trans-Siberian Railroad (2010), circumnavigated India by train (2011), and also traveled most of the Amtrak routes (2018).
Visited Museo de la Revolucion and Museo Casa del Alfenique; got the impression that I was “not wanted” in the museum. Visited Museo Jose Luis Bello y Gonzalez, and provided a tour in Spanish. Visited Biblioteca Palafoxiana, where local dancers performed.
Also visited the central zocalo, Puebla Cathedral, and the street artists on Callejon de los Sapos; this last location was teeming with people; became palpably claustrophobic.
Visited Parque Ecologico Revolucion Mexicana, a large green space, “the lungs” of the city, Templo de San Francisco, and Fuerte de Loreto, where Mexico defeated France in 1862.
Automobiles:
It’s often fascinating to see the cars people drive. The original Volkswagen Beetle (Vochos), paired with a manual gearbox, remains popular. Beetle production began in Puebla in 1954, producing more than two million cars over fifty years, until 2004. Following a popular Mexican rally race, the 2,000-mile Carrera Panamericana, the Beetle was viewed as “indestructible” with its 1200cc (75-horsepower) engine. Car became so popular, it was used as Mexico City taxi, later removed from service due to strict emission requirements.
Wonder if Mexico is where old US cars go to die; saw an AMC Gremlin, and a few Reliant K cars. My grandmother had a K car; my family used to joke that the K stood for “krap.”
In terms of modern cars, Chevy Spark, Chevy Sonic, and the Volkswagen Cross Fox are popular, along with the Honda HRV and Honda Fit. Most cars seem to be paired with a manual gearbox. My 2012 Honda Fit, with a manual gearbox, might be a “luxury” right about now. There are a few luxury nameplates on the road, notably, Audi and BMW.
Other thoughts:
Feel uncertain and uncomfortable at times; like I’m living in “no-man’s land.” Likely, too much time alone, in my head. If it’s not too much to ask, would appreciate a moment of clarity or insight. In the meantime, on a mission of discovery and exploration. There is a teaching in Zen Buddhism, suffering ends when recognize that there is no end to suffering.
Morelia: THU February 3rd – WED February 17th 2022
Plan to take the bus from Puebla to Mexico City (2-hours), Wednesday February 2nd, and take the bus from Mexico City (Norte) to Morelia (4-hours), Thursday February 3rd. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery – never been better – thank you, Myles.
garthmonroe 