I visited Grand Canyon National Park three times in the past decade. The first trip was in March 2013, there was light snow at the rim; I visited the typical visitor viewpoints in the park.
The second trip was in October 2016; I hiked down South Kaibab trail and up Bright Angel trail, 16-miles, 5000-feet elevation change in eight hours. I used hiking poles, but also had a broken toe; I didn’t take any breaks. The night before, I stayed in Flagstaff at the local hostel. Woke up at 2am, arrived at the south rim at 4am, and took the 5am shuttle to the trail head. It was still dark, so needed to use a headlamp, and also had to get around the mule team, which was making its way into the basin. It was 55-degrees when I started hiking; I reached the basin before 8am where it was 80-degrees, and when I reached the summit, it was 70-degrees. I descended South Kaibab, because there is no shade and no water on this trail. I ascended Bright Angel, because portions of the trail have both shade and water. I wanted to stay overnight at Phantom Ranch, but wasn’t able to “win” the lottery for a bunk. The park rangers discourage people from hiking up and down in a single day.
I stayed overnight at the park, in Bright Angel Lodge. I typically wouldn’t do this, because it’s not inexpensive, but allowed the indulgence. Bright Angel Lodge isn’t fancy; my room had a bed, and there was a common area bathroom. It was a nice way to end the hike, because I could clean up, stretch, and enjoy sunset on the south rim. I was a bit sore, certainly, the hike up Bright Angel felt like a never-ending stair master machine. The following day, I drove to the north rim, which is three hours away, and is quite unique, due to its higher elevation.
I returned to the park in September 2021 to hike the infamous rim to rim to rim (R2R2R). Some people hike the 45-mile round trip, 11,000 feet elevation change in less than 24-hours (hiking in the dark); others run the entire distance in 10-12 hours. I didn’t want to hike in the dark, and even though my trip was at the last minute, I was able to reserve a room overnight on the north rim in one of the frontier cabins. The room wasn’t inexpensive, but felt that it provided some rest before completing the second half of the hike. The basin is still hot in late September, often reaching 100-degrees, so it’s still necessary to begin the hike early in the morning.
I free-camped on Bureau of Land Management national forest land in Grand Canyon Village, just minutes from the south rim. I woke early in the morning on Thursday, drove to the park, and took the hikers express shuttle to South Kaibab trail. I reached Phantom Ranch at 8:30am, and ascended North Kaibab trail to the north rim, a total distance of 22-miles, coming off the trail at 2:30pm. The following morning, I started down the North Kaibab trailhead at 4:00am, and reached Silver Bridge at 9:00am, and reached the summit of Bright Angel trailhead at 1:00pm, a total distance of 23-miles.
Like the last trip, I used hiking poles; I wore a wide-brimmed hat, wicking t-shirt, shorts, and Merrill minimalist shoes (without socks). I “painted” several of my toes the day before with liquid bandage to minimize blisters.
I carried a small backpack, with a Platypus 2-liter water bladder. I used caffeine + electrolyte drink tabs; I munched on Clif Bloks (some with caffeine, others with sodium); for the uphill portions of the hike. For snacking, I carried a pound of dry roasted and salted almonds.
I’m physically active: running, swimming, yoga, kettlebell. I didn’t set any speed records for this hike, and it certainly was not the intention. I’m grateful that I completed the hike without incident, and as I get older, also grateful to have completed the hike without injury.
The Grand Canyon, like many of the national parks, is a special place. The beauty is truly awe-inspiring. I’m grateful for the opportunity to visit the park, and to complete this challenging hike.
garthmonroe 